Wolverine

Чем можно заняться в Кальви (и окрестностях)

...кроме плавания и загорания :) Интересуют все мало-мальски интересные места от музеев (если есть) до "красивых мест" :)

Заранее спасибо
Франция: Кальви   
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Обсуждение последний ответ 23 мая 2010

vanille
Мы просто вдоволь нагулялись по крепости. Оттуда и вид хороший на город, и просто очень приятно. Сам городок не особо инетресный - улочки, наполненные туристами и ресторанами. Можно приятно посидеть в кафе на набережной. Оттуда же можно взять круиз вдоль берегов - многочисленные фирмы предлагают как поездки в окрестностях, так и до самого Аяччо. Собственно, от Кальви недалеко до Иль-Руссо. Там у самого центра города что-то типа пляжа, а если пройти подальше - то генуэзская башня и маяк. На башню взобраться нельзя - она совсем закрытая. Но виды красивые, как везде на Корсике.
Wolverine
Большое спасибо. То есть кроме крепости особо нечего смотреть? Жалко :) ну а может не на побережье что-то можно обнаружить (вдруг)? До Иль-Русс вроде бы идет ж\д? Часто ли? Дорого ли? :) Кстати эти круизы - тоже интересно. Сколько это стоит примерно? Стоит ли пробовать с ребенком (2 года)? Был бы признателен за ответы, если найдется минутка.

Что касается "приятно посидеть" - это само собой разумеется ;) Совет на все случаи жизни :)))
vanille
Поезда там как то уж совсем не ходят, скорее уж автобусы. Видели мельком поезд вдалеке - по убогости соревнуется с полузаюрошенными абхазскими электричками. Но вообще там обычно народ на машинах передвигается. По идее, в Кальви можно взять в аренду машинку и поездить по округе. Только осторожно.
Нам вообще Бастия понравилась (часа 2-3 езды от Кальви на восток). Но от Кальви же можно поехать в Порто. Вообще у Порто находится национальный заповедник с просто неимоверно живописными скалами. Собственно вокруг них, но только с воды, и совершаются круизы (в том числе с заездом к какой то деревне, к которой по суше вообще не добраться).
Порядок цен на криузы - около 30-35 евро за 3 часа. Обычно есть разные варианты, подлиннее и покороче, но цены примерно от 20 евро начинаются и доходят кажется евро до 40. Детям подешевле. Попробовать с 2-хлетним ребенком наверно можно, только захватите теплую одежду (лучше непромокаемую, так как на открытой площадке, откуда интереснее смотреть вокруг, может быть ветрено и все в брызгах морской воды).
Отправление экскурсий обычно с утра (около 9 часов) и в обед (12-14). Ну а дальше уже вам решать, будет ли интересно ребенку три часа сидеть на лодке и смотреть на проплывающие пейзажи. Мы так плавали у Бонифачо (у Порто не набралось народу, чтоб собрать группу), нас высаживали бродить час по острову. Маленький ребенок такое не осилит, но может от Кальви такого не будет. Точнее вы можете уточнить уже в окне, когда будете покупать билеты. Там вам покажут и карту с маршрутом, и объяснят точно, что куда входит.
tafkab
На поезде в Иль-Рюс поехать бесспорно надо. Где еще встретишь такой допотопный поез, где из-за недостатка мест можно сидеть в кабине машиниста или сидеть на ступеньках, высунув ноги наружу? ))

А вообще-то надо брать машину на прокат и ехать в Корсо, Аяччо и т.д.
vanille
Из путеводителя Michelin про Кальви:

Calvi
Proudly camped on the lookout over its bay, Calvi is one of the most attractive places in Corsica. An upper town or Citadel, silent and secret, and a lower town, the marina with white houses where the atmosphere of a spa resort reigns; these are the main reasons, if you need them, for stopping here.

Church of Ste Marie Majeure
he current Church replaced the 13 C Church that succeeded an early Christian sanctuary of the 4th C, Barbarians then Saracens have stubbornly destroyed the successive buildings. An attractive lively ochre and pink facade, with a lantern Dome, an organ chest of Italian manufacture and Florentine paintings (coming from the inexhaustible Fesch collection) decorate the current building.

Port
Well protected yet easily accessible, this port is much appreciated by yachtsmen. It is also a fishing and trading port for the export of products from Balagne.
Quai Landry F - 20260 Calvi

Town hall
You'll reach this through an attractive stepped garden decorated with palm trees, mimosas and oleanders. In the ballroom are paintings offered to the town by the inevitable Fesch.
R. Albert-1er F - 20260 Calvi

Place Christophe Colomb
Many Calvi inhabitants will explain to you in all seriousness that Christopher Columbus was one of the sons of the area. The proof? Calvi was Genoese, like Columbus. Don't believe a word! In this square the monument to the dead is decorated by a RENOMMEE by Emmanuel Fremet, nephew and pupil of Rude.

Salt Tower
Serving as a store for the salt that the boats brought in, this round tower was probably a watchtower in previous times, the centrepiece of the early fortifications.
Quai Landry F - 20260 Calvi

The Marina
With its cafes and restaurants, its quays planted with palm trees, its yachts and fishing boats, the lower town offers an arresting contrast to the silent old streets of the upper town. With its pastel facades and shops, the Rue Clemenceau is the main thoroughfare.
Quai Landry F - 20260 Calvi

Old palace of the Genoese governor
A massive building from the 13 C, flanked by a keep, it was built by Giovanello and extended by the Knights of St George. Inside, there are huge rooms, subterranean reservoirs and secret dungeons.
Pl. d'Armes F - 20260 Calvi

Church of John the Baptist
Under a large Dome topped with a skylight, the 13 C church, reconstructed in 1574, was built as a cathedral after its reconstruction. Inside, in the form of a Greek Cross, Renaissance baptismal fonts, recesses with iron grilles where well-born ladies would carry out their business without being obliged to mingle with the common people, an attractive sculpted oak throne and a large wooden triptych attributed to the Genoese painter Barbagelata (1458) representing the Annunciation.
Pl. d'Armes F - 20260 Calvi

Calvi Citadel
On its rocky promontory, the Citadel, symbolising six centuries of Genoese presence, stands above the lower town and the port, with its ochre walls of the fortified surrounding wall.
Citadelle de Calvi F - 20260 Calvi

Fortifications
Invaded by barbarian figures, the Ramparts enclose the old town. Erected in the 15 C by the Genoese, subsequently they have hardly been repaired. The Spinchione, which dwarfs the marina and the port, the Malfetani, covering the South and East side and the Teghiale to the north, are the three strong points of these fortifications.
Citadelle de Calvi F - 20260 Calvi

Oratory of St Anthony's Brotherhood
Accompanied by a friendly little pig, St Anthony, the abbot, patron saint of the Brotherhood, poses between John the Baptist and St Francis kneeling on the black tiles sculpted on the door lintel.
Citadelle de Calvi F - 20260 Calvi

Pacciola house
Fleeing Ajaccio in 1793 Napoléon Bonaparte came to stay in this house near to his godfather.
Citadelle de Calvi F - 20260 Calvi

Sagonne Bishops' House
This massive building dating from the 15 C was formerly the summer residence of the bishops of Sagone
Citadelle de Calvi F - 20260 Calvi

View over the Citadel
From the cemetery looking over the sea, there is a view over the Citadel from which stands out the Dome of John the Baptist's Church, the lower town, the bay and the beach.
Citadelle de Calvi F - 20260 Calvi

Pine forest
From the marina to the mouth of the Figarella, this 4 kilometre long pine forest was created at the end of the 19 C to ensure the maintenance of the dunes and contribute to the cleaning of the marshland. It is made up of sea pines, oleanders and eucalypt and it is skirted by the Calvi-Ponte-Leccia railway, the best way of accessing the beaches.
F - 20260 Calvi

Notre-Dame-de-la-Serra

From the terrace of this chapel that emerges suddenly from the scrubland, there is an admirable view over the riverbanks, the mountains and the Citadel. The statue of Notre-Dame-de-la-Serra perched on its rock never ceases to study the bay.
Rte de N.-D.-de-la-Serra F - 20260 Calvi

Revellata Point
Almost an island, this has pretty views over the jagged coast. At the far end of the promontory is a Marine Biology Laboratory.
Rte de N.-D.-de-la-Serra F - 20260 Calvi

Capu di a Veta
A fairly steep slope through the scrubland will lead you to the cross erected at the top of the Capu at an altitude of 703 m. The superb view over the Gulf of Calvi makes all the effort worthwhile.
Rte de N.-D.-de-la-Serra F - 20260 Calvi

La Balagne
Bordered to the northeast by the Désert des Agriates and by the Fango Valley to the southwest, La Balagne has two major seaside resorts, Calvi and L'île-Rousse, backing onto the hinterland. The Artisans de Balagne Craft Route will take you through some superb high-perched towns, surrounded by orchards and vineyards. Don't miss Montemaggiore on its promontory, the charming paved streets of Sant'Antonino or Pigna, which has come to symbolise the country's musical and craft traditions.
F - 20260 Calvi

F - 20 Réserve naturelle de Scandola
The Scandola peninsula rises to a maximum height of 560m between Punta Rossa to the south and Punta Nera to the north. Situated to the north of the Gulf of Girolata, it can be reached by boat from Punta Muchillina, skirting the jagged coastline. Diagonal light-coloured stripes contrast with the dark rocky peaks and the eye is greeted with needles soaring upwards, huge boulders in the form of islets, and headlands jutting into the sea, some crowned with a tower. In the distance, it is possible to make out a few patches of green. The islet of Garganello flanks that of Gargalo, whose lighthouse marks the westernmost part of Corsica. You will then see Punta Palazzu, bristling with rocks, and Punta Nera, which frame the ravine of Elbo to the north of the reserve. The boat then approaches a narrow gully soaked in sea spray, and enters a cave of exceptionally transparent waters before changing course. Life clings to the sheer cliff faces, as bushes and even trees attempt to put down their roots. On lofty peaks, hidden by their nests of branches, osprey lie in wait for their prey, seemingly keeping watch over this wild universe.
tafkab
Да, кстати, не удивляйтесь - но легионеры Иностранного легиона, стоящего в крепости - как правило говорят по-русски.
vanille
Из путеводителя Rough Guide Directions:

Calvi
Seen from the water, CALVI is a beautiful spectacle, with its three immense bastions topped by a crest of ochre buildings, sharply defined against a hazy backdrop of mountains. Twenty kilometres west along the coast from L'Île Rousse, the town began as a fishing port on the site of the present-day ville basse below the citadelle, and remained just a cluster of houses and fishing shacks until the Pisans conquered the island in the tenth century. Not until the arrival of the Genoese, however, did the town become a stronghold when, in 1268, Giovaninello de Loreto, a Corsican nobleman, built a huge citadelle on the windswept rock overlooking the port and named it Calvi. A fleet commanded by Nelson launched a brutal two-month attack on the town in 1794; he left saying he hoped never to see the place again, and very nearly didn't see anywhere else again, having sustained the wound that cost him his sight in one eye.
The French concentrated on developing Ajaccio and Bastia during the nineteenth century, and Calvi became primarily a military base, used as a point for smuggling arms to the mainland in World War II. A hangout for European glitterati in the 1950s, the town these days has the ambience of a slightly kitsch Côte d'Azur resort, whose glamorous marina, souvenir shops and fussy boutiques jar with the down-to-earth villages of its rural hinterland. It's also an important base for the French Foreign Legion's parachute regiment, the 2e REP, and immaculately uniformed legionnaires are a common sight around the bars lining avenue de la République.
The GR20
Winding some 170km from Calenzana (12km from Calvi) to Conca (22km from Porto-Vecchio), the GR20 is Corsica's most demanding long-distance footpath. Only one-third of the estimated 17,000 hikers who start it each season complete all sixteen stages (étapes), which can be covered in ten to twelve days if you're in good physical shape – if you're not, don't even think about attempting this route. Marked with red-and-white splashes of paint, it comprises a series of harsh ascents and descents, sections of which exceed 2000m and become more of a scramble than a walk, with stanchions, cables and ladders driven into the rock as essential aids. The going is made tougher by the necessity of carrying a sleeping bag, all-weather kit and two or three days' food with you. That said, the rewards more than compensate. The GR20 takes in the most spectacular mountain terrain in Corsica and along the way you can spot the elusive mouflon (mountain sheep), glimpse lammergeier (a rare vulture) wheeling around the crags, and swim in ice-cold torrents and waterfalls.
The first thing you need to do before setting off is get hold of the Parc Régional's indispensable Topo-guide, published by the Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre, which gives a detailed description of the route, along with relevant sections of IGN contour maps, lists of refuges and other essential information. Most good bookshops in Corsica stock them, or call at the park office in Ajaccio.
The route can be undertaken in either direction, but most hikers start in the north at Calenzana, tackling the most demandingétapes early on. The hardship is alleviated by extraordinary mountainscapes as you round the Cinto massif, skirt the Asco, Niolo, Tavignano and Restonica valleys, and scale the sides of Monte d'Oro and Rotondo. At Vizzavona on the main Bastia– Corte– Ajaccio road, roughly the halfway mark, you can call it a day and catch a bus or train back to the coast, or press on south across two more ranges to the needle peaks of Bavella. With much of the forest east of here blackened by fire, hikers in recent years have been leaving the GR20 at Zonza, below the Col de Bavella (served by daily buses to Ajaccio and Porto-Vecchio), and walking to the coast along the less arduous Mare a Mare Sud trail.
Accommodation along the route is provided by refuges, where, for around €11–12, you can take a hot shower, use an equipped kitchen and bunk down on mattresses. Usually convertedbergeries, these places are staffed by wardens during the peak period (June– Sept). Advance reservation is not possible; beds are allocated on a first-come-first-served basis, so be prepared to bivouac if you arrive late. Another reason to be on the trail soon after dawn is that it allows you to break the back of the étapebefore 2pm, when clouds tend to bubble over the mountains and obscure the views.
The weather in the high mountains is notoriously fickle. A sunny morning doesn't necessarily mean a sunny day, and during July and August violent storms can rip across the route without warning. It's therefore essential to take good wet-weather gear with you, as well as a hat, sunblock and shades. In addition, make sure you set off on each stage with adequate food and water. At the height of the season, many refuges sell basic supplies (alimentation), but you shouldn't rely on this service; ask hikers coming from the opposite direction where their last supply stop was and plan accordingly (basic provisions are always available at the main passes of Col de Vergio, Col de Vizzavona, Col de Bavella and Col de Verde). The refuge wardens (gardiens) will be able to advise you on how much water to carry at each stage.
Finally a word of warning: each year, injured hikers have to be air-lifted to safety off remote sections of the GR20, normally because they strayed from the marked route and got lost. Occasionally, fatal accidents also occur for the same reason, so always keep the paint splashes in sight, especially if the weather closes in – don't rely purely on the many cairns that punctuate the route, as these sometimes mark more hazardous paths to high peaks.

and clean toilet blocks. Closed Nov– March.
The town and citadelle
Social life in Calvi focuses on the restaurants and cafés of the quai Landry, a spacious seafront walkway linking the marina and the port. This is the best place to get the feel of the town, but the majority of Calvi's sights are found within the walls of the citadelle.
"Civitas Calvis Semper Fidelis" – always faithful – reads the inscription of the town's motto, carved over to the ancient gateway into the fortress. Once through the entrance you come immediately to the enormous Caserne Sampiero, formerly the governor's palace. Built in the thirteenth century, when the great round tower was used as a dungeon, the castle is currently used for military purposes, and therefore closed to the public. The best way of seeing the rest of the citadelle is to follow the ramparts, which connect the three immense bastions. From each bastion the views across the sea, the Balagne and the Cinto Massif are magnificent.
Within the walls the houses are tightly packed along tortuous stairways and narrow passages that converge on the place d'Armes. Dominating the square is the Cathédrale St-Jean-Baptiste, set at the highest point of the promontory. This chunky ochre edifice was founded in the thirteenth century, but was partly destroyed during the Turkish siege of 1553 and then suffered extensive damage twelve years later, when the powder magazine in the governor's palace exploded. It was rebuilt in the form of a Greek cross. The church's great treasure is the Christ des Miracles, housed in the chapel on the right of the choir; this crucifix was brandished at marauding Turks during the 1553 siege, an act which reputedly saved the day.
To the north of place d'Armes in rue de Fil stands La Maison Colomb, the shell of a building which Calvi believes – as the plaque on the wall states – was Christopher Columbus's birthplace, though the claim rests on pretty tenuous, circumstantial evidence. The house itself was destroyed by Nelson's troops during the siege of 1794, but as recompense a statue was erected in 1992, the 500th anniversary of Columbus's "discovery" of America; the date of this historic landfall, October 12, is now a public holiday in Calvi.
Calvi's outstanding beach sweeps right round the bay from the end of quai Landry, but most of the first kilometre or so is owned by bars which rent out sun loungers for a hefty price. To avoid these, follow the track behind the sand, which will bring you to the start of a more secluded stretch. The sea might not be as sparklingly clear as at many other Corsican beaches, but it's warm, shallow and free of rocks.
Eating and drinking
Eating is a major pastime in Calvi, and you'll find restaurants and snack bars on almost every street. Fish restaurants predominate in the marina, where – at a price – you can eat excellent seafood fresh from the bay. Cafés, fronted with fashionable parasols and teak furniture, line the marina, becoming more expensive the nearer they are to the foot of the citadelle.
Cafés and bars
Chez Tao rue St-Antoine, in the citadelle 04.95.65.00.73.Legendary nightclub, opened in the wake of the Bolshevik Revolution by a Muslim White Russian, and long the haunt of the Riviera's glitterati. Now turned into a pricey piano bar serving fussy nouvelle cuisine and local fish dishes, costing around €30–35 à la carte. June– Sept 7pm– midnight.
Restaurants
L'Abri Côtier On quai Landry, but entrance on rue Joffre 04.95.65.12.76. Mostly seafood dishes (such as sea bass with fennel) and pizzas (from €13), served on a lovely terrace looking out to sea. Their set menus (€23–35) and suggestions du jour are invariably the best deals.
U Fanale rte de Porto, just outside the centre of town on the way to Punta de la Revellata 04.95.65.18.82. Worth the walk out here for their delicious, beautifully presented Corsican specialities – mussels or lamb simmered in ewe's cheese and white wine, a finesoupe Corse, and melt-in-the-mouth fiadone (traditional flan). Menus €25 plus a full à la carte choice, and pizzas from €10. You can dine outside in the garden or inside their salle panoramique, with views across the bay to Punta de la Revellata.
U Minellu Off bd Wilson, nr Ste-Marie-Majeure. Wholesome Corsican specialities served in a narrow stepped alley, or on a shady terrace with pretty mosaic tables. Their menu features baked lamb, cannelloni al brocciu, spider crab dressed "à la Calvaise", and a cheese platter – good value at €22.
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